Good Mourning


This old man has been on this dadburn computer everyday ( most of day) trying to sort out a problem with my CD!s or my CD-rom drive (dont know which). Well i noticed that yesterday when i tried to run sfc /scannow with my xp home cd in cd-rom drive i could not because it kept telling me to insert my xp cd , so i put the xp home cd in my cd-r/rw drive and it run sfc /scannow with out a hitch. Is this some kind of clue that i have a bad cd-rom
drive?
Thanks Much
harley

CD Burners have better lasers usually, than regular drives, so it may be nothing more than the CD Rom had trouble reading the disc, and the burner didn't.

If the CD Rom works OK generally, I wouldn't worry about it, it happens sometimes.

Insomniac


Thanks for your reply , sure do appreciate it. I ask the sfc /scannow question because i thought it might be tied to my other cd-rom problem.
I have xp home sp2 installed on this machine now , well i am going to try to build my own computer and i need the xp home off to put in it (new computer) , this is a old p111 computer so i thought i would put the 98se O/S
back in it and let grandkids fool with there old games.


anyway when i put the 98se cd-rom in the 98 menu comes up ok , the menu has : interactive CD Sample , Cool Video Clips , Browse this CD and add/remove Software but when i click any of these items another box (with red X) pops up saying to Please reinsert your Windows 98 CD-ROM so i do , but no joy.

Thanks again
harley

PS: I can right click cd-rom icon in my computer then click open or explore and it will show the files on the cd , it will boot off the cd , and i can copy cd.

That's weird. May be a dirty lens in the drive, or it could be malfunctioning. Hard to say without seeing it.

Try a lens cleaner. They look like a CD, but with brushes embedded in them.

Also, try uninstalling the drive from Device Manager, then reboot and let Windows reinstall it.

If you copy the CD, does it do the same thing with the copy?

Anyway, if it boots from CD, then you can install Windows 98SE.

98SE can be installed the same way as XP, by booting from it, then formatting and installing. (You don't have to use a floppy to install 98SE)

If it won't format an NTFS partition, use the XP CD to format, then boot with the 98 CD and install it.


If the drive keeps playing up with the new installation, chances are it's dying a slow death.

Not a big deal these days, new ones aren't expensive, and "old" drives can be found for next to nothing.

Insomniac

Shoot when i copied the cd all i got was a ISO thingie are there a way to copy the 98se cd to where it will boot like the orginal? What i would like to do is put xp on C drive and 98se on D drive , bet theres no way , right?
harley

If you "got an ISO thingie", then you didn't copy it correctly.

An ISO is an image of the contents of a CD/DVD. Inside that ISO will be all the files and folders.

If you burn an ISO as a data CD, it will simply burn the ISO as one big file, for example file(Whatever).ISO.

You either need to extract the contents of the ISO (any ISO program will let you do so like UltraISO, or even compression programs like Winrar etc), then burn the files and folders, or in your burning program select burn image.

The program will then just burn the contents, and not the ISO itself.

I don't know which burning program you are using, so I can't give specific instructions?


Quote "What i would like to do is put xp on C drive and 98se on D drive , bet theres no way , right?"

Yes, there are various ways. Do you mean have two installations, on separate partitions, on the one physical drive?

Or do you have two separate drives?

Either way is possible.

You also have the option of leaving XP as it is, then using Micro$$oft Virtual PC, which is now free, to install 98SE.


I don't really understand exactly what you're trying to do or achieve, and I don't know what your current set up is?

Insomniac



to start with i want you to know that this old man appreciates all your help.



[You either need to extract the contents of the ISO (any ISO program will let you do so like UltraISO, or even compression programs like Winrar etc), then burn the files and folders, or in your burning program select burn image]

I have already deleted the ISO.

[I don't know which burning program you are using, so I can't give specific instructions?]

I have Nero 5.5


[Yes, there are various ways. Do you mean have two installations, on separate partitions, on the one physical drive?
Or do you have two separate drives?]

I have two separate drives (physical)


[You also have the option of leaving XP as it is, then using Micro$$oft Virtual PC, which is now free, to install 98SE.]

I do not want to get into the virtual pc stuff , that even sounds confusing and i am confused enough now.

[I don't really understand exactly what you're trying to do or achieve, and I don't know what your current set up is?]

Well believe it or not , but this old man is going to build his own PC already have the parts and i need the XP home thats on this old p111 pc for it. When i had this computer built back in 1999 or 2000 it had windows 98se on it (Still have the CD) , later on i purchased a XP home upgrade and installed it (Still have CD) , three months or so back i purchased a retail full version XP Home Edition with the sp2 already on it and thats what is in it now (the one i want for new PC).
I was thinking that if i could somehow get 98se and xp on this old p111 i would give it to my grandson and he could get on line and etc (xp home) and play these old games i got on the 98se.

Thanks again
harley

Sorry to confuse you, I tried not to. Anyway.

For your information, when you burn ISO's in Nero, you do so in Nero Burning Rom, and not Express.

In Burning Rom, you cancel the compilation window that appears when you first start the program, then under the Recorder menu, select burn image, and choose the ISO or whatever.

Nero will then burn just the contents of the image, and not the file itself.


Back to the main problem, and congrats on building your own PC. It's heaps of fun, satisfying, and a great way to learn.

Windows 98SE uses the FAT32 file system. XP can use FAT32, or NTFS. You get the choice when you install it.

NTFS is far more stable, and secure, but it can't access FAT32 installations (only over a network).

Always use NTFS unless you require this access.

There are third-party programs that can access FAT32 from NTFS, but XP using NTFS can't do it on it's own.

Basic rule of dual-booting (installing 2 operating systems), is to install the older one first, in your case 98SE, then once that's done, install XP.

XP will see that you have 98SE already installed, and will lead you through the dual-boot setup.


In short, decide on the file system, install 98SE first, then XP.

It's pretty simple if you follow these steps. Good luck.

Insomniac


This old man can sure pile on the questions , right? But its hard to find someone that will put with my dumb questions.


OK! Do i have to format both drives (C:/ and D:/) before i start , or just stick the 98se cd in and install on D:/ then put XP cd in and install on C:/?

Do you know of a good web site where i could find out excatly what i need to copy on a cd so i can get online after i do all this installing? Every time i have installed or reinstalled a O/S i spend weeks on phone calls trying to get on line. The nic card thats in this old computer uses XP drivers.
Thanks
harley

PS:Is it best to d/l Winzip , anti-virus program and etc and save on cd , or to get it after i install and get on internet?

"Do i have to format both drives (C:/ and D:/) before i start , or just stick the 98se cd in and install on D:/ then put XP cd in and install on C:/?"


You should format. You can do one at a time.

Use the 98SE CD, format drive D:, then install. (The installation will walk you through the formatting and install procedure)

Then use the XP CD, format C:, then install. (XP will detect you have 98SE, and walk you through dual booting).


You should have drivers, and antivirus ready on CD/DVD, so you can install them as soon as you've installed Windows. (It's not safe connecting to the Internet unprotected, looking for drivers etc)

It's best to keep program installations to a minimum until everything is sorted.

The less you have installed, the less chance of problems.

The drivers required are your motherboard, video card, and modem drivers.

Windows only installs generic drivers. These are just to get the PC up and running.

But they don't provide the best performance, or enable all the features.

In short, have all the drivers and antivirus ready.

Install Windows, then your hardware drivers, then antivirus, then update your antivirus if needed, and finally update Windows on the Micro$$oft Windows Update site. (Only use the Windows Update site for Windows patches, and not for hardware drivers as it can install the wrong ones)


For sites, the best two I know of are below, and have step by step instructions.

http://www.petri.co.il/install_windows_xp_pro.htm

http://www.windowsreinstall.com/

Insomniac


Hope this is last time i will bother you with questions on this.

The first thing is i dont remember if i told you this xp is a upgrade version.



[Use the 98SE CD, format drive D:, then install. (The installation will walk you through the formatting and install procedure)

Then use the XP CD, format C:, then install. (XP will detect you have 98SE, and walk you through dual booting).]

All i have ever done is a couple of repair installs and a upgrade install , but i dont remember seeing anywhere where i could choose which HDD to install on
seems like it had one choice and that was C drive , is this old man wrong?

[The drivers required are your motherboard, video card, and modem driver

This old computer has a old Intel Desktop Board D815EPFV and intel no longer supports it (I have installation CD) , Do i go to Intel web site and get what i can for it?

My NIC card is a netgear and according to manual this model (FA311) it uses XP drivers it says to just install it and xp would put in drivers.

What really scares me is when you talk about modem drivers , i got TWC Roadrunner (Cable)everytime i fool with the modem drivers i can not get on line for at least a week or more , the last time i ended up having to purchase my own modem from bestbuy its a mortorola. Are there any chance that this modem will work with the drivers it has now?
Thanks Much
harley

The first thing is i dont remember if i told you this xp is a upgrade version.




That shouldn't make any difference. A Windows Upgrade CD is the same as a "full" CD.

The only difference is that during installation, it will ask you to insert the 98SE CD (or whatever) to check that you're eligible.

Apart from that, there is no other difference.





i dont remember seeing anywhere where i could choose which HDD to install on




You get to select which drive, and which file system (for XP) you want to install.





This old computer has a old Intel Desktop Board D815EPFV and intel no longer supports it (I have installation CD) , Do i go to Intel web site and get what i can for it?





http://support.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d815efv/ (Intel downloads and info for your board)

Don't worry about Bios updates, at least for now.





My NIC card is a netgear and according to manual this model (FA311) it uses XP drivers it says to just install it and xp would put in drivers.




That makes it easy then, don't worry about drivers for it.





Are there any chance that this modem will work with the drivers it has now?




If you are using an Ethernet connection, you don't need modem drivers.

Only USB modems require drivers.

Insomniac


The old mans back , now if you are tired of fooling with me or dont have the time please let me know.

I have decided to leave the old p111 pc alone and put the 98se and the xp home in the pc i am trying to build (MB= Cheap Biostar NF325-A7). My question is:

will Microsoft give me a big hassle? Do i have time to see if my computer works before i have to call microsoft? The reason i ask these questions is that everysince my bypass sugery my hearing has become a little bad , I have called Microsoft one time and after three calls trying to get someone that i could hear i gave up and purchased another O/S.

Does this mean that it built in? Is it ethernet?

10/100 Lan
-PHY:RTL8201BL
-Supports 10Mb/s and 100Mb/s auto-negotiation
-Half/Full duplex capability

I found this in my NF325-A7 MB manual.


Again i sure hate bothering you , but i powered this thing on after i put the MB , CPU and heatsink ,case fans , and memory in and i got a short beep(what ever that means) and the heatsink fan and case fans where working
So i put in two hdd , cd-rw , FDD and old video card . It a little scary to this old man because i dont know what to do if it bootsup.

Thanks
harley

You aren't bothering me, I don't mind answering questions.

Anyway, it sounds as if it's Ethernet. Ethernet is the connection.

Just about all broadband modems can be connected via USB or Ethernet.

Ethernet uses a square plug which is clear (usually), and has a small clip built in.

They look the same as a phone line clip, but about twice the size.

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/lifestyle/2001/hEthernetPlug.jpeg


Regarding the question on Micro$$oft, not sure exactly what you're asking?

Are you worried about installing Windows on more than one machine?

If it's 98SE, they have no way of knowing how many machines you've installed it on. (knock yourself out, install it on as many as you want :) )

That's why they introduced Product Activation in XP.

With XP, you can only install in on one machine (unless you purchased a Corporate Licence), and you have 30 days to activate it. (activating means it locks the product code to your hardware combination and issues you with an Activation number)

If that's not what you mean, post back with exactly what you're asking.


Regarding the single beep, that's normal and is a sign that everything is OK.

When the PC first starts, it goes through what's called POST, which is where it checks all your hardware. (checks the health of the system)

One beep means everything is OK.

It then goes on to boot to the operating system.

The beep is a way of relaying problems.

If it beeps more than once, you need to remember how many times, and whether they were long or short beeps. (easy when you hear it)

That will tell you which piece of hardware it's not happy with.


To install Windows, you need to make your Bios boot from CD Rom as the first device, then insert the CD and reboot and follow the prompts.

Insomniac


Yes its looks like a oversized phone jack and in manual it says its a LAN jack.

Well i hooked up all my drives and etc in my computer (new build) and turned it on. A Biostar logo screen come up then a black screen telling me that i had two hdd!s one master and one slave , and that i had a cd-rw and it was master and that my memory was ok. Well i was thinking that maybe i pulled it (the build) off , but down at the bottom of the screen it said:
Press F8 to enable system configuration
Press F9 to select boot device
Press F1 to continue
Press delete to enter setup
Shoot i didnt know what to do (press) , so i pressed F1 (to continue) and a black screen with a flashing cursor pops up saying to insert a cd and hit enter , i am thinking this is where i install a O/S so i typed exit and esc and anything else i could think of but it stayed on that screen i had to use the power switch to turn comp. off (sure hope i didnt mess up something).
Which number should i have pressed? do you know off anywhere (web site ) where i could read up on what to do before install O/S?

My keyboard is working but after thinking about it i dont remember the mouse light being lit.

About the o/s!s i got two computers and i got 2 xp home (oem) , i 98 (oem)
1 98se (retail) 1xp home sp2 (retail) and 1 xp home upgrade (retail). I want to put the 98se(retail) and the xp home upgrade (retail) in my new build , they were in my old p111 computer for i think about two years well the xp home maybe two years i have had this 98se say 7 years i got the xp home sp2 in the old p111 now.
Anyway i have been reading the microsoft forums about if you was to put a o/s on another computer you had to call them and i just can not make out what they are saying.
Thanks
harley

You need to go into the Bios.

Then you can briefly check that all your installed hardware is displayed correctly, and change the boot order so that your CD/DVD drive is the first device. (It may already be set that way)

To enter the Bios, you need to hit a key as the machine is starting.

This key varies, it can be delete, F1, F11 etc.

Generally, it will briefly tell you at the bottom of the screen to Press whatever to enter setup, or words to that effect. (In your case, try F9 or delete)


Once that's done, exit the Bios (make sure you save your Bios settings if you changed them), insert the Windows CD, reboot and follow the prompts.

You have 30 days grace when you first install XP (it will work as normal), then you will need to activate it. (98SE doesn't have activation)

Worry about that when it comes, and concentrate on the installation first.

Insomniac

Shoot after i put this computer together i thought that installing the O/S would be a breeze , boy was i wrong. I am already confused and only at first page of install. On the Windows set up page do i want to hit F5 and choose "Advanced Configuration Power Interface (ACPI) PC" (like it says below) thats what my other computer has got and it works good. And how do i find out if my computer will support ACPI? i am thinking BIOS.


Not sure but i think this (below came from one of the microsoft support sites .

1- Almost immediately after Windows setup begins the screen shown to the left will appear. Unless you have the very latest in hardware you probably won't need to press the F6 key to install and SCSI or RAID driver. However, when XP is first installed it tries to determine what type of BIOS is available on the computer. Newer systems have what is known as Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) capability. Unfortunately, XP doesn't always recognize a computer BIOS is ACPI capable and doesn't install the support for ACPI. Pressing F5 at this point allows you to select the proper HAL.

a-ACPI Multiprocessor PC

ACPI Uniprocessor PC

Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) PC

Compaq SystemPro Multiprocessor or 100% Compatible PC

MPS Uniprocessor PC

MPS Multiprocessor PC

Standard PC

Standard PC with C-Step i486

Other

PS: Dont i have to activate xp to d/l sp2 and get my windows updates?

Insomniac

Forget about my last post , because i went ahead install xp and didnt choose "Advanced Configuration and Powerinterface (ACPI) PC and it put
ACPI Uniprocessor PC (i think it was).
Anyway its not reconizing one of my hdd!s in My Computer , its got one ( C:/)
but both hdd!s are listed in my device manager and says that they are working. In "My Computer/Manage" only C:/ in listed in the top pane ,in bottom pane its got C:/ as healthy and the other hdd (no drive letter) listed as Unallocated.
Would you please tell me where to start to find out what the problem is.
Thanks Much
harley

I've never hit F5 when installing Windows, and have never had a problem. (In the installing Windows links I supplied, I don't think it tells you to hit F5 either)

Don't think it's related to your issue anyway. (ACPI allows the operating system to do things like sleep and hibernate etc)

Go into the Bios and make sure both hard drives are detected correctly.

If they are, then the problem is with Windows.

Did you format the empty drive? If not, when you format, you will be able to see it. (I'm almost sure that's where your problem is. Windows can't use the drive if it's not formatted)

I thought you were dual-booting? You should have installed 98SE first if you are.

If you want to format the "invisible" drive :) , Start, Run and type in compmgmt.msc

Under Storage, highlight Disk Management, then in the right-side, right-click the drive in question and you can format, mark it as active etc.

Insomniac


[Go into the Bios and make sure both hard drives are detected correctly]

Both drives are detected , one master and the other slave.

[Did you format the empty drive? If not, when you format, you will be able to see it. (I'm almost sure that's where your problem is. Windows can't use the drive if it's not formatted]

No i did not format anything except what xp did when i was installing , i think it formatted the C:/.

[ I thought you were dual-booting? You should have installed 98SE first if you are.]

Shoot i decided not to do it , i have enough trouble keeping one O/S running.
Four years ago i had one computer (old P111)and just used it to pay my bills , well after my last bypass surgery i couldnt do anything except fool with the computer and got interested in two simulation games ( combat flight simulator and nascar) anyway i have been spending all my time trying to get at least one computer up to the task of playing the sim. games.
If you want to format the "invisible" drive , Start, Run and type in compmgmt.msc

[Under Storage, highlight Disk Management, then in the right-side, right-click the drive in question and you can format, mark it as active etc.]

Done like you said and when i right click drive in question i get two choices , new partition and properties. Is new partition same as format? If it is do i use the primary or extended partition in the new partition wizard?
later
harley

Done like you said and when i right click drive in question i get two choices , new partition and properties. Is new partition same as format? If it is do i use the primary or extended partition in the new partition wizard?
later
harley





In order to use space on a hard drive, it must be partitioned.

Try new partition, then extended, then format (you'll have the format option further on, or it may do it automatically, can't remember).


*You could also use the XP disc, and boot from that to achieve the same thing.


Once you're happy with the operating system, go into Device Manager, make sure there are no ? or !, and that everything is listed correctly.

Then create a Restore Point, and update your motherboard drivers if applicable, and apply any Micro$$oft critical patches etc.

I would leave it for a week or two before installing any third-party programs, games or whatever, just in case there are any issues.

Insomniac

Tried the extended deal and it done something , but no format so i played around in there and it ended being logical drive it formatted and now it shows up in my computer. Sure hope i done it right , i noticed that theres 66MB of space used on the drive and theres nothing on it.

I guess i will have to call MS , i had a sp2 cd so i installed it but i need something i think called networking 2 in order to install my video driver, when i went to the windows update i can not download anything until i validate.

Insomniac i dont want to be nosey , but do you work on computers for a living?
Well be good , and i will keep asking questions until you tell me enough.
later
harley

No, I don't work on PC's for a living, I do this for fun, like sex and eating. :)

If you can access the drive, and install things etc, then you've done it OK. Well done. :luxhello:


Regarding the video driver, I don't know what that has to do with Networking, or contacting Micro$$oft.

It's the same deal as your motherboard. Identify the video card or chip, then go to the manufacturer's site and download the appropriate driver.

As I stated earlier, you should only rely on the Windows Update site for Windows patches, and not drivers.

Reason being, in many cases it identifies your hardware incorrectly, and installs the wrong driver with disastrous consequences.


You may have to call Micro$$oft in the end to activate XP as you've changed the hardware, but not regarding the video driver.

If you're unsure of the driver, post your video card details.


EDIT: It's been a while since I've activated XP, but Micro$$oft may have changed the grace period or rules.

It's 30 days for a first install, and you should be able to activate online without calling them.

For hardware changes after the initial activation, this may only be 3 days, so keep an eye on it. (Not sure on this, as they keep changing it)

Regardless, it's a painless procedure by phone, and should only take a minute.

Insomniac


I was not trying to get drivers from MS , was trying to get .Net Framework which ati said that i had to have inorder to install that video driver.

FROM ATI INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS


[The CATALYST Control Center requires Microsoft .NET Framework prior to installation. The CATALYST Control Center is an application that allows you to control the configuration of your ATI product. You can verify that you have the .NET Framework by checking in the Add/Remove Programs list in the Control Panel. If the .NET Framework is not listed, please download, and install it before proceeding. Microsoft .NET Framework]

Anyway that card that i said was a radeon 64se well after i got it running (comp) i found out that it was a radeon 7200 using dxdiag and device manager and i found it on the omega web site (its just the driver).

I got this thing running and online (on it now) but there are some things not right , so i am going to try and resolve the problrms one at a time , starting with this dadburn heat deal.

I use this program called adia and i noticed that the CPU temperture was 119c so i kept watching it and a sec. later it said 2c then 40 , 87 , 90, 14 , 100 and etc. and it gos from 10c to over 100c back down to 10 again in seconds.
the voltage jumps around like that to , but the MB stays on 86c (to high)wheather if its right after i turn comp on in mourning after its off all night or after its been running for four hours.
In the Bios the CPU temperture stays between 28c and 30c.
I have tried speedfan , everest , MBM5 and the hardware monitor that came with MB software and it does the samething on all of them.
I am thinking that i have got something wired wrong or not wired , what do you say?
Later
harley

PS: Sorry if i got to personal with you , but was just wondering. You seem to know youre stuff .

Now I understand. .Net Framework is required by a lot of programs these days.

However, anyone can download it. You don't need to activate (At least not ever on my system), or even a legal copy of Windows as far as I know.

I think it's included on the SP2 CD, but you may have to dig a bit under Additional Tasks or whatever.

Anyway, you shouldn't have a problem downloading it if you have to.

You may even already have it. Look under Add/Remove. If it's listed, then it's installed.

When you try to install the ATI driver, it won't install if you don't have it, and will inform you that it's needed.


Personally, I wouldn't use Omega drivers unless I had to (Omega drivers are usually modified for extra features or performance), and from my understanding, the project is on hold anyway, so it's not being updated.

Get your drivers from ATI themselves, far less chance of problems. http://ati.amd.com/support/driver.html

Make sure you uninstall any existing Omega or ATI drivers first, before installing the new one.


As far as temperature, most processors aren't designed to run over 85 degrees Celsius.

Depending on the model, optimal temperature is usually 30-50 roughly.

For motherboard, 85 C is way too high. It should be in the 20-40 range roughly.

This is assuming Aida (and the others) is correct. Software temperature monitors aren't always accurate, and Aida is an old program. (It's been replaced by Everest, but they don't offer a free version any more for the latest one.)

Did you put heatsink compound on the processor when you were building it? (or did it already have a thermal mat or pad etc instead of the compound?)

If you're sure you/it did, and the CPU fan is working (and everything is seated correctly), there isn't much more you can do apart from keeping an eye on it.

If you aren't sure, or you/it didn't, heatsink compound isn't expensive, and can make a huge difference.

It should come with application instructions, but if not, then Google for it.


It's hard to say whether or not those temperatures are accurate.

On most systems, it would reboot or shut down if it was running that hot.

Does the temperature reduce if you leave the side cover off, with a fan pointing at it?

I would trust what the Bios is reporting over other software programs, but they can all be extremely inaccurate.

Insomniac

Shoot i installed the trial version of Everest and the tempertures dont jump around with it and cpu temp stays between 25 and 28C , but it does not give me a MB temp. So i must have done something wrong when i built this computer , out of four PCs this is the only one that i cannot find out what my MB temp. is. I sure do appreciate your reply and if you have any ideas on what to try to see what MB temp. is please let me know.
thanks again
harley

25-28 C for your CPU is pretty good.

Just because Everest doesn't give you a motherboard temperature though, doesn't mean you've done something wrong. (Your hardware may not even correctly support this, even though it works on other PC's.)

Software temperature monitors are notoriously flaky and inaccurate.

All I can suggest, if it concerns you, is to try other programs.

Motherboard Monitor is a popular program, although I'm not sure if it's current.

Normally, the best tools are the ones supplied with your hardware, if possible. (The Bios should also tell you the motherboard temperature, usually?)


If your worried about overheating, most Bioses (sic) allow you to set a reboot or cut-off temperature.

Don't know if yours has that feature or not, the manual should tell you.


Not much more I can add to help, apart from things that I'm sure you've already repeatedly gone over, like double-checking everything, and airflow etc.

If your Bios reports the motherboard temperature, and it's in the desired range, I wouldn't worry about it.

Insomniac

Thanks for your reply. Shoot , i have tried a lot of diff. programs. Speedfan shows a lot of diff temps but this dumb old man can not sort out which tempertures are for what (MB , cpu and such). My bios does not have a MB temp. only CPU and i got it set to shut off at 70C.
I know i sound a little perticular about this computer stuff , but i have four computers (1Dell , 2 HP!s and 1 i had built ($2600.00) in my closet that dont work because i went along with the "If it works dont fix it" thinking.
Thanks again for your help i sure do appreciate it. Going to try and resolve my cd-r/rw problem now.
later
harley














s

Wasn't trying to fob you off, it's just hard communicating and trouble-shooting via a keyboard, and I don't blame you for being careful and thorough.

Just keep your eye on it, and sort out the Device Manager issues.

Insomniac


I know this question is off topic (not the first time) . I got a dadburn "zlob.dnschanger" trojan (ihave never had a trojan or virus in 15 years) and have been reading up on it and it takes a lot of tech stuff to get rid of it (Dont think this old man has the smarts to do it) I was wondering would doing a O/S reinstall get rid of it , if so i would have a better chance of getting rid of it.
thanks
harley

[

A reinstall would definitely get rid of it, as long as you format and install, and not just do a Repair (install Windows over itself).

If you don't mind doing it, you'd probably be better off with a fresh start, taking on board things you've learnt since the last time.

Isomniac


Shoot , i was getting ready to reinstall my xp home and run spybot again and that dadburn trojan did not showup i run it serval times and it never showed up again , but i would still like to put my xp home sp2 in my computer ( the one i just had in that old p111) i got that upgrade in here now but for two things.

1 - Scared i can not hear (over phone) good enough if i have to call microsoft to validate. On the upgrade i lucked out. I had a family member come here (100 mile drive) to make the call , but shoot i did not have to call.

2 - What do you make of this (below)? Didnt you say not to worry about this?




(a) - When XP is first installed it tries to determine what type of BIOS is available on the computer. Newer systems have what is known as Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) capability. Unfortunately, XP doesn't always recognize a computer BIOS is ACPI capable and doesn't install the support for ACPI. Even more unfortunate is the fact that if ACPI support isn't determined at the initial install it's virtually impossible to correct this at a later time short of reinstalling XP over the top of the previous XP installation. To do so requires changing the Hardware Abstraction Layer (HAL). The chances of successfully changing a HAL after XP has been installed is pretty close to zilch.

Once you drop the CD in the tray and fire up the computer to install XP, the first thing you'll see at the bottom of the screen is the option to press F6 if you need to install a SCSI or RAID controller. Don't press F6. Press F5 instead. This will take you to a separate menu of Hardware Abstraction Layer's where you can choose an appropriate HAL that supports ACPI. The choices will be:

ACPI Multiprocessor PC

ACPI Uniprocessor PC

Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) PC

Compaq SystemPro Multiprocessor or 100% Compatible PC

MPS Uniprocessor PC

MPS Multiprocessor PC

Standard PC

Standard PC with C-Step i486

Other

In the majority of installations the 'Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) PC' HAL is the one you will want to use. A few cautions are also in order:

Obtain and install the latest BIOS for your motherboard before you begin the XP installation.

Equally as important as using the proper HAL on ACPI capable systems, is NOT using it on systems that are not ACPI compatible. The install may complete but the system will almost surely fail to start when it reboots.

There are situations where it is definitely not desirable to use an ACPI HAL even if it is supported by the BIOS. This predominately applies to servers, but to ensure that an ACPI HAL will not be used or automatically detected and used, press F7 instead of F5 as discussed previously.

Considering the number of problems that users have with systems not shutting down completely I wonder why this feature is not prominently mentioned and documented. It could save many headaches, but now you know. A good piece of knowledge to have tucked away for your next XP install.

As a final note, to determine if your computer was detected as being ACPI enabled:

Right click My Computer then click Properties > Hardware > Device Manager.
Expand the entry called Computer.

If the entry is 'Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) PC' you're all set. If it says 'Standard PC' the computer BIOS was not detected as being ACPI capable.

Thanks
harley

Easiest way is to select fail-safe defaults in your Bios (or similar).

Then I would disable things you don't use, like Parallel or serial ports for example.

Then save and exit, and install Windows.


Regarding your copies of XP, if they are both XP Home, there is no difference between them, regardless of whether one is an upgrade version.

Only difference is the Product Key, and whether one already comes with SP2 etc.

As far as Windows itself, both upgrade and full versions are the same, so it's up to you which one you want to use.


Activation is a pain in the @rse. You can however, backup your activation files so you don't have to go through this drama next time.

The files required are wpa.dbl and Wpa.bak in your System32 folder.

You can save them to whatever you have, CD/DVD, floppy etc (files are very small)

To restore them, you start in Safe Mode, and replace both files. (This obviously only works with a reinstall and if there hasn't been a significant hardware change)


Not sure if I've understood your post correctly, but if the upgrade version is currently already installed and activated, then the easiest way is to copy the activation details, reinstall and use the same Windows Product Key.

There is no benefit using the other copy of XP, unless one is Home and the other is Pro.

Obviously, if you suspect a virus, then don't migrate any other files from this installation, only the activation files.

Insomniac

I was bragging on what a fine job i done building this computer yesterday , well it went to hell this mourning. Yesterday i unhooked the new computer and hooked up to another to check out a cd-rom that i want to use in new computer ,it was working fine when i unpluged it , well when i hooked it back up heres what i get:NO PRESET

Ht 31.43 KHZ

Status: NO SYNC

I reseated the video card (no joy) tried serval times , the monitor works on other computer.
Can it be anything other than the video card?
thanks
harley

Certainly sounds like the video card. (Most Bioses will beep a certain code to inform you that the card or signal is dead)

I doubt you did anything wrong though, there's not much to installing them.

Only mistakes people make are not connecting a power supply connector to the video card (PCI Xpress cards), or not seating it correctly.

Is the monitor's VGA cable detachable, or is it all one piece?

If it's detachable, check for bent pins. (If there are, try straightening them, but be careful as they can snap easily)



Apart from that, there isn't much else that you can do, and as you said, it was working OK previously.

Insomniac


This will probaly be my last question on this new computer , bet you are glad of that. We tried three video cards that are known to be good and it does the same thing so i guess it must be something else and seeing how i can not see anything on the monitor i guess its trash can time , my question is , do you think that the MB is bad or the cpu? I would like to salvage what i can from it , i might try to build another in the future. damn shame, when i turn it on i can tell that it is booting up i even get the one beep . just cant see anything. I even tried to boot from my xp cd (no luck).
later
harley

I'm really sorry to hear about your problem.

It sounds like motherboard, but it's hard to say.

Aren't these parts under warranty?

Insomniac


In the past i have been trying not to damage my MB by not pushing on the video card to hard , because when i put pressure on it my MB would look like it was bending , well yesterday i had decided that it wasnt anygood anyway
so i decided to try one more time and i wiggled (the video card) around and push it into the slot as hard as i could and the dadburn thing started working again. That made me think of what a old boy told me here awhile back that he used a pencil eraser to clean the little gold pens on bottom of card.
Is it possible that the pins would get so dirty setting around in a box (for 5 years) that the card would not work)?
later
harley

Yes it's possible. Cleaning gently with an eraser may help. (You said you tried other cards though, so the problem is at the motherboard end)

And you did the correct thing by not pushing too hard as it can crack the printed circuit board, or dislodge solder joints.


It may be that a good push is all that was needed. Hopefully, it's nothing more serious than that, and it's not a dodgy solder or connector etc.

Glad you got it going again. Well done. :luxhello:

Insomniac


Well i am not going to do any cleaning on this dadburn card while i got it working. Yes i tried three cards , asus agp v7100 , radeon 7200 and radeon 8500 but i did not push them in hard like i did the last one i tried (the radeon 8500) it in here now. All three of the cards are old i am talking real old.
later
harley

They're not that old, I'm using an ATI 9200. :)

I thought you were using new hardware, hence my question on warranty.

Anyway, I'm happy it's going well for you. You did well.

Good luck and have fun. :cheers:

Insomniac


I purchased a new case , MB , CPU , PSU , HDD!s and one stick memory the rest come out of old computers laying around.

I really apreciate all your help , i guess it like my famliy says "You didnt build a computer Insomniac did" Well thanks again and stay smart.
harley